Tasting Notes
Neal Martin 93
The 1983 L Hermitage is a vintage I have encountered a couple of times before, though not for some years. Gerard Chave would have made this. Now four decades old, the 1983 has a wonderful bouquet that has retained all its vigor, quite Burgundy-like with wilted rose petals that infuse the shimmering dark cherry and raspberry fruit. Hints of rooibos, Earl Grey and clove emerge with time. The palate shows an impressive body and gentle grip; the tannins have melted in recent years. It s saline with just a distant tang of green olive. There is a touch of meatiness towards the finish that is extremely well-defined and surfeited with charm and character. Maybe it s a little rustic compared to recent vintages, yet that is just part of its allure.
Anticipated maturity: 2024-2040
Antonio Galloni 91
In this context, the 1983 Hermitage comes across as a bit rough around the edges. Smoke, game, tobacco, leather and a host of other varietal notes are very much alive in the glass. The 1983 is fully mature, brawny and pungent, but also shows no signs of fading. It is an excellent choice for drinking over the next handful of years.
Vinous 93+
Good full red. Complex, slightly exotic aromas of gibier, tar, spearmint and orange peel. Very concentrated and superripe, with extravagant hints of woodsmoke and iron filings. A wine of great ripeness and substantial power, still a bit dominated by its substantial, dusty, palate-saturating tannins. Fascinating wine, still improving. Here the first wine that struck me as an older style of Hermitage, but then this vintage produced very ripe, very tannic wines. Still, says Jean-Louis: "Today we would make a wine with silkier tannins from a year like ’83."
Wine Advocate 92
Tasted at the Ottoman restaurant in Canberra. The 1983 is one of my favourite Hermitage wines from Chave in the early 1980s. It has an animally nose with hints of shiitake mushroom. Fine definition and real character. The palate is rustic and animally, certainly less polished than the wines of today but so full of personality with very fine acidity and a touch of mushroom and undergrowth on the finish. Excellent. Tasted November 2011.
JancisRobinson.com 18.5
The first vintage when he could bottle all the wine at once. Very meaty. Savoury, muscular, fresh and racy. Great survivor, lots of life. Firm and long.
Anticipated maturity: 1995-2020
